Classic bourbon — or “dusties” — are an enormous a part of the whiskey culture. Bottles from bygone eras supply a glimpse into the times of yore in American whiskey, usually with unimaginable whiskey hiding in cobwebbed cellars. A part of the attraction to vintage bourbons is for funding, after all. So long as individuals are opening outdated bottles, the sealed ones will go up in worth (normally).
One other a part of it — and the half I care about most — is definitely consuming the stuff when the second is correct. Opening up a bottle from the Eighties has one thing to show us about that period, whereas additionally including context to the bourbons being distilled today.
See the place we’re headed right here? It’s time for a giant, blind classic bourbon tasting. The type that I by no means may have pulled off, had I not been invited to Justins’ House of Bourbon in Louisville, Kentucky, for a 10-pour, double-blind sampling of whiskeys bottled principally within the Eighties and Nineteen Nineties. That’s a chief period for one big motive. Again then, the American whiskey trade was actually on the ropes. Vodka’s increase within the Nineteen Seventies meant that by the mid-Eighties and effectively into the Nineteen Nineties, bourbon producers have been mainly pressured to place very outdated whiskey into average-ish bottles as a result of they actually couldn’t give the stuff away. That implies that quite a lot of very customary stuff from that period was, effectively, fairly superb.
On the similar time, as a result of the warehouses have been brimming with long-aged bourbons, you additionally noticed quite a lot of high-age assertion labeled bourbons that you simply don’t actually see anymore. Typically seemingly random labels of bourbon can be “Aged 15 Years” and that will be the minimal age of the barrels used within the batch. Wild instances, proper?
Fortunately, we’re in an period the place a good few of those classic bourbon bottles are nonetheless kicking round. And locations like Justins’ — in each Louisville and Lexington, Kentucky — are nonetheless pouring them. It’s not simply in KY, both. There are whiskey bars throughout the nation that additionally concentrate on dusty pours. Jack Rose Dining Saloon in DC or The Ballard Cut in Seattle each come to thoughts. After which there are on-line retailers like The Whisky Exchange within the U.Ok. focusing on dusties from all around the world.
All informed, anybody actually trying to get into these bygone bourbons will discover them pretty accessible in 2023. For a worth.
WHY ARE DUSTIES SO INTERESTING?
So what makes a “dusty” or classic bourbon particular? Justin Thompson (one of many famed Justins and my tasting buddy on this double-blind journey) seems to be at it like, “getting a two-for-one bourbon expertise.” I agree. First, you’re getting this sense of what bourbon was like 30, 40, and even 50 years in the past. The oldest bottle in our tasting was a 43-year-old bottle of Old Rip Van Winkle 11-Yr-Outdated Kentucky Bourbon — which means we have been sampling one thing that was distilled and barrelled in 1969 (possible with a lot older barrels within the mix). A few of these grains have been in all probability grown in 1968, or all through the Sixties. The timber that the barrels have been made out of have been possible alive within the 1800s. That’s an training in your palate that you simply can not at present replicate. The second half is the truth that you’re attending to expertise pour of whiskey normally. It’s a enjoyable combo.
It additionally dispels the parable that bourbon is “supposed” to taste a certain way and at all times has. The ten bourbons we blindly tasted had large variations in style. It’s good to do not forget that bourbon (rye, scotch, Irish whiskey, and so on. too) had simply as a lot vary throughout taste profiles 30, 50, or 100 years in the past as they do at present (some would argue there was way more variation in taste the additional you return however that’s a chat for an additional day).
WHAT ABOUT THE MONEY?
Okay, let’s deal with the elephant within the classic liquor retailer room earlier than we kick off. This is not a cheap hobby. I’m not itemizing bottle costs in my rating under as a result of discovering sealed bottles like these have such a malleable worth {that a} price ticket can be nearly an entire shot at nighttime. Simply know this — they’re not low-cost.
I did, nevertheless, record the pour costs for these whiskeys at Justins’ Home of Bourbon in Louisville. They’re fairly customary costs and similar to ones I’ve seen for very related bottles at classic whiskey bars across the nation/world. That worth level on the very least gives you an concept of how a lot capital you’ll must get into the sort of whiskey consuming (gathering these bottles is a complete totally different matter).
Okay, let’s simply dive in to get a way of what’s going with these bourbons (and one sneaky rye). I had no concept what was being poured and hadn’t seen any bottles beforehand. Nonetheless, I knew by the primary pour it was going to be enjoyable. Learn my tasting notes after which browse the rating to see which whiskeys dominated the day.
Additionally Learn: The High 5 UPROXX Bourbon Posts Of The Final Six Months
VINTAGE BOURBONS, TASTED DOUBLE BLIND
Style 1
Tasting Notes:
Nostril: This has a traditional nostril with a touch of dried purple chili and a literal sense of dustiness subsequent to gentle darkish pitted fruits, outdated leather-based, and a touch of caramel that offers method to a fruity darkish pudding creaminess.
Palate: The physique is gentle and clean with a way of outdated piles of cedar kindling subsequent to bitter purple berries with a touch of cellar oak, dried purple spices, and gentle vanilla caramel cream.
End: The top is on the lighter finish, possible on account of decrease ABVs, however delivers a touch of cedar and creamy darkish orchard fruit with a touch of outdated vanilla husks.
Preliminary Ideas:
This was outdated and felt it at first. Then as we went again to the pours after 5 and 10 minutes, it actually become a gentle and creamy lush pour of whiskey. It was a hell of a change.
Style 2
Tasting Notes:
Nostril: There’s a wealthy and vivid purple berry nostril that actually pops earlier than hitting on darkish but gentle winter spices and a touch of salted caramel that offers method to actually recent cedar bark braided with pipe tobacco.
Palate: There’s a way of an outdated whiskey barrel on the palate with a twinge of tannic oak subsequent to darkish and wealthy caramel drizzled over a wild berry cobbler.
End: That berry vibe drives the end again towards the recent and vibrant cedar with trace of clove and anise-spiked tobacco vanilla truffles.
Preliminary Ideas:
This had a little bit age to it however that dissipated because it opened up with a little bit air. The general vibe was berry-forward with underbelly of traditional bourbon sweetness simply kissed with salt and wooden.
Style 3
Tasting Notes:
Nostril: It is a traditional nostril — darkish cherry cola, salted caramel, vanilla pie, outdated oakiness, and a lightweight sense of sharp darkish winter spice.
Palate: The caramel and vanilla clean out the opening of the palate towards a pointy and nearly slicing clove, allspice, and cinnamon spice matrix that dries out towards barks and dried buds with a counterbalance of burnt orange zest and dried orchard fruits.
End: The top stays fairly sharp with a way of outdated oak cellars and dry apple cider spiked with winter spice and darkish and leathery figs, prunes, and dates.
Preliminary Ideas:
This was a traditional bourbon by means of and thru. Darkish fruit, candy and creamy, and loads of woody spice.
Style 4
Tasting Notes:
Nostril: The nostril opens with a face stuffed with outdated cellar ground dust and a touch of fir bark subsequent to gentle white grits minimize with buttercream vanilla sauce and brown sugar that’s simply kissed with cinnamon and nutmeg.
Palate: The style is a giant bowl of these grits with a sharper sense of spice and a clean sense of toffee and vanilla cake that’s nearly like a modern-day craft bourbon.
End: A rush of dried orchard fruits — apricot, apple, pear, orange — come into play late and cling to the earthiness of the outdated corn silos of sentimental grain and candy brown sugar syrups.
Preliminary Ideas:
This one threw me because it tasted so artful because of that candy graininess/porridge vibe. It was actually tasty, don’t get me unsuitable.
Style 5
Tasting Notes:
Nostril: The nostril opens with an outdated sense of oak subsequent to dried black cherry and apple chips soaked in cinnamon tea with a touch of creamy eggnog custard minimize with loads of vanilla and perhaps even some salted darkish chocolate.
Palate: The palate leans into spiced black cherry pipe tobacco with a touch of clove and allspice over gingerbread cookies, worn boot leather-based, and an outdated household room decked out for Christmas with recent fir, loads of decorations, and a touch of winter spice bundles hanging out within the corners.
End: The top leans into the darkish cherry and spice with a lightweight sense of spice barks and nearly cherry cream minimize with darkish chocolate and vanilla sauces which might be simply touched by rose water and marzipan.
Preliminary Ideas:
Nicely, that is nice. It tastes fairly superb. It’s additionally tremendous nostalgic and pulls off that magic trick the place you’re transported to your grandparent’s place on Christmas Day.
Style 6
Tasting Notes:
Nostril: Large baggage of buttery and salted popcorn lead on the nostril with a touch of Milk Duds beneath that transfer towards cherry-soaked oak staves.
Palate: Cherry Coke and corn husks drive the palate as gentle caramel and outdated dried apricot with a touch of leathery Fruit Roll-Ups mingle with a way of powdered winter spices.
End: The top actually leans into that dry corn with a whisper of the salty popcorn talking again in in opposition to the caramel and milk chocolate with a touch of cherry spice on the very finish.
Preliminary Ideas:
This was such a radical departure from the remainder that I’m not likely positive what to make of it. Going again after 5 and 10 minutes, the corn stays however extra tart fruitiness arrives, solely confounding me additional.
Style 7
Tasting Notes:
Nostril: Darkish cherry and deep winter spice mingle with tremendous lush and creamy vanilla and date with a touch of leathery saddle cleaning soap, a twist of orange, and a flutter of smudging sage.
Palate: The palate leans into an excellent silky model of traditional spiced cherry Kentucky bourbon vibes with a deep sense of vanilla malts and cherry pipe tobacco subsequent to sharp and woody winter spices that run deep towards nearly leathery tobacco leaves.
End: The top holds onto the spiced cherry vibe whereas layering in spiced apple cider and perhaps even a touch of purple mulled wine with a touch of spiced walnut bread on the facet.
Preliminary Ideas:
It is a nice pour of whiskey.
Style 8
Tasting Notes:
Nostril: Tart berries and dry sweetgrass and smudging sage drive the nostril towards a lightweight sense of outdated oak staves and herb gardens.
Palate: These tart berries get a tad creamy with the vanilla on the entrance finish of the palate earlier than giving method to a lightweight yard in the summertime vibe with a way of outdated wicker.
End: The top holds onto the now creamy tart berries earlier than veering into dry sage and tobacco territory with a touch of cedar and a faint whisper of dry malts that just about begins to really feel like an outdated dry scotch.
Preliminary Ideas:
That is so fully totally different. It’s grassy and dry and actually tasty.
Style 9
Tasting Notes:
Nostril: The nostril is pure buttercream vanilla that results in a wealthy layering of spiced vacation truffles, rum raisin, black-tea-soaked dates, black walnuts, and dried cherries dipped in salted toffee and rolled in darkish cacao powder.
Palate: The mouthfeel is silky and luxurious with a way of that wealthy buttercream main towards extra of the darkish cherry that attaches to winter-spiced tobacco packed into an outdated cedar humidor after which wrapped in outdated motorbike jacket leather-based.
End: The end takes that outdated leather-wrapped humidor and locations it in a mattress of sweetgrass braided with cedar bark and smudging sage earlier than the luscious creaminess returns with a way of outdated vanilla husks and cherry pits.
Preliminary Ideas:
That is simply scrumptious and so deep.
Style 10
Tasting Notes:
Nostril: The nostril opens with a deep sense of vanilla and cherry earlier than veering right into a dank earthiness that’s half white moss and half outdated fir bark with a touch of black soil and dusty outdated cellars.
Palate: The palate dances between darkish dried purple berries and stewed apples and pears towards creamy and salted toffees with a touch of almond and chocolate that then mingles with spicy woody barks and tobacco.
End: The steadiness of fruit, spice, and buttery sweetness comes into crystal clear focus on the finish as all of these notes are baked into a vacation cake with a way of deeply salted caramel swirled by means of the richest vanilla ice cream and topped with the spiciest stewed cherry actually brings this sip dwelling.
Preliminary Ideas:
If somebody requested me for a quintessential Kentucky bourbon, that is the path I’d level them.
Half 2 — The Classic Bourbon Rating
10. Willett Classic Bourbon Handmade in Kentucky Aged 17 Years (2009) — Style 6
ABV: 49.5%
Common Worth: $200, 1-ounce pour
The Whiskey:
This whiskey comes from the minds at Willett Distillery. That implies that it’s going to be some extraordinarily uncommon juice from the Bardstown space that the workforce at Willett took custody of and acted as steward over because it aged. Past that, Willett doesn’t say a lot moreover buzzy advertising and marketing phrases like “Handmade” and such.
Backside Line:
That is the one one I actually didn’t look after. It was tremendous earthy and grainy and the candy and spiced fruit form of obtained misplaced.
I do know folks lose their shit over these bottles as a result of they’re kinda/sorta secret Willett releases. However I’d in all probability skip this one except you’re a Willett acolyte.
9. Outdated Rip Handmade Kentucky Straight Bourbon 4 Years Outdated (1988) — Style 1
ABV: 43%
Common Worth: $100, 1-ounce pour
The Whiskey:
That is Pappy (a wheated bourbon) when it was in a transition interval between the Stitzel-Weller Distillery in Louisville (Shively), the Hoffman Distillery in Lawrenceburg which was renamed Outdated Commonwealth, and the eventual transfer to the Buffalo Hint Distillery in Frankfort. Within the Eighties, Julian Van Winkle III was bottling at Hoffman from the Stitzel-Weller-made whiskey and launched it as a type of entry-point age assertion to the heritage model. In essence, that makes this the true poor man’s Pappy from the Eighties.
Backside Line:
This was good things. It felt like traditional and grassy Kentucky bourbon with some actual depth. That deepness didn’t run too deep because the proofing was fairly excessive however nonetheless delivered a stable general profile/expertise.
8. Outdated Bardstown Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey 12 Years Outdated (2002) — Style 2
ABV: 43%
Common Worth: $20, 1-ounce pour
The Whiskey:
In the present day, Outdated Bardstown 90-Proof is Willett’s backside shelf customary bearer that’s truly fairly good. 20 years in the past, that was additionally very true of this model from the famed Bardstown distillery/bottler. Besides again then, there have been a lot older barrels going into this combine earlier than mixing, proofing, and bottling, therefore that they had a giant age assertion with a finances worth level.
Backside Line:
First, Willett must deliver again that black label ASAP. It’s a lot better than this beige wall nonsense they’ve now.
General, it is a rattling superb whiskey with a pleasant steadiness. It’s and simple pour (that almost all of us can afford) that’ll provide you with a glimpse into actually good low-cost whiskey from 20 years in the past. That stated, that is fairly rattling good whiskey for what was as soon as a bottom-shelf pour.
7. Austin Nichols Wild Turkey Kentucky Straight Rye Whiskey (2011) — Style 8
ABV: 50.5%
Common Worth: $40, 1-ounce pour
The Whiskey:
That is the earlier iteration of Wild Turkey branding again when “Austin Nichols” was nonetheless entrance and heart on the model. The whiskey within the bottle is the Russell household recipe that was made by Eddie and Jimmie Russell simply over 10 years in the past.
Backside Line:
That is actually good and it nonetheless is. In comparison with a 2023 pour of the identical bottle (basically), it actually does come throughout as extra refined however solely barely so.
6. Outdated Rip Van Winkle Very Particular Inventory Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Aged 11 Years (1980) — Style 4
ABV: 45.2%
Common Worth: $140, 1-ounce pour
The Whiskey:
This non-public bottle of Pappy is from the Outdated Commonwealth period when Julian Van Winkle III was nonetheless utilizing Stitzel-Weller whiskey barrels to fill batches. These bottlings have been for particular shoppers, accounts, and associates of the model and have been distributed as yearly thank yous principally, therefore the identify on the label. Nonetheless, there’s an 11-year-old Pappy wheated bourbon from the outdated distillery on this bottle, making it extremely sought-after.
Backside Line:
Yeah, it is a good bourbon. It lives as much as the hype. Actually, that is higher than a number of the fashionable Pappy on the shelf proper now (taking a look at you, 23).
In the long run, that is a vital pour to know the place the model got here from and why folks adore it so rattling a lot.
5. Anderson Membership Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Aged 15 Years (1996) –Style 3
ABV: 43%
Common Worth: $20, 1-ounce pour
The Whiskey:
So there’s so much occurring with this bottle. One, it’s pre-fire Heaven Hill (quick story, Heaven Hill had a huge fire in 1996 that destroyed quite a lot of inventory and services and created a bifurcation level within the desirability of the whiskey from there). Two, this was a Japan-only launch. Three, it’s an outdated whiskey from a very long time in the past that truly tastes like a time that’s actually misplaced because of that aforementioned fireplace.
That’s the pitch anyway.
Backside Line:
Yeah, it is a good goddamn whiskey. It does style like one thing that’s actually well-aged whereas additionally feeling like a traditional profile that so many different distillers/producers are always chasing proper now in 2023.
4. Joshua Brooks Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Aged Over 15 Years (1990) — Style 10
ABV: 57.5%
Common Worth: $200, 1-ounce pour
The Whiskey:
It is a pre-fire Heaven Hill whiskey. The whiskey was distilled and aged in Bardstown after which despatched to a bottler out in California to be bottled and distributed (sure, it is a sourced bourbon). The model petered out and now these bottles are all that’s left.
Backside Line:
Primarily, you’re getting whiskey made at Heaven Hill within the early Nineteen Seventies with this one. That’s dope. Furthermore, that is one other instance of that pre-fire Heaven Hill whiskey being fairly spectacular stuff. It feels prefer it must be a fable that it’d make that a lot distinction however this whisky is quite a lot of proof that the whiskey was simply higher from again then.
3. Yellowstone Straight Bourbon Whiskey Aged 7 Years (1994) — Style 5
ABV: 45.5%
Common Worth: $25, 1-ounce pour
The Whiskey:
This whiskey is from the outdated J.B. Dant Distillery which was shuttered over the last bourbon downturn within the Nineteen Nineties after working for over 150 years in Gethsemane, Kentucky (although the Dant household has since reopened it). The whiskey on this bottle is from that outdated distillery and a direct line to an nearly misplaced heritage of bourbon making from one of many largest names in all of Kentucky bourbon.
Backside Line:
Yellowstone is a part of Limestone Distilling now and is basically sourced through Lux Row (although it’s nonetheless made by a Dant descendant). This model is so drastically totally different in that it reaches into the model’s origins and has a depth that’s unimaginable. It is a nice pour of whiskey that’ll educate you on a whiskey that was form of misplaced to time because of vodka taking on within the Nineteen Seventies.
2. Austin Nichols Wild Turkey Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Aged 12 Years (1991) — Style 7
ABV: 50.5%
Common Worth: $100, 1-ounce pour
The Whiskey:
This whiskey is a throwback to the late Eighties/early Nineteen Nineties of Wild Turkey’s historical past. The discharge was lovingly nicknamed “Tacky Gold Foil” by the model (at the least they’ve a humorousness about themselves). The whiskey within the bottle is traditional Turkey 101 that was left to age for 12 years (at the least) earlier than batching, proofing, and bottling.
Backside Line:
That is mainly one among Wild Turkey’s first forays into greater age statements throughout a time once they had a ton of outdated barrels and couldn’t promote them. It was a real disaster meets alternative second. In the long run, we obtained a implausible model of Wild Turkey that reaches again into the Nineteen Seventies. It additionally foreshadowed the large success of Russell’s Reserve 13-Year which has been a whiskey nerd favourite for the final two years.
On and that is f*cking scrumptious. Purchase a bottle should you can.
1. Outdated Grand Dad 114 Barrel Proof Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (1989) — Style 9
ABV: 57%
Common Worth: $100, 1-ounce pour
The Whiskey:
Nationwide Distillers was one of many first behemoths of Kentucky bourbon because of being allowed to remain open throughout Prohibition (whereby it began shopping for quite a lot of distilleries throughout Kentucky, together with the unique Outdated Grand-dad Distillery at Hobbs Station). Finally, Nationwide Distillers (which made Outdated Grand Dad at The Outdated Taylor Distillery, which is now Fort & Key) was purchased by Beam in 1987. That implies that this whiskey is pre-Beam Outdated Grand Dad from Outdated Taylor Distillery however bottled by Beam.
In the present day, the whiskey is made at Beam’s facility totally and these barrels are exhausted (a lot to the chagrin of the model’s outdated followers).
Backside Line:
This was the deepest and most fascinating pour by far. This tasted like nice whiskey normally, with out the patina of it being a “dusty” bourbon. It’s additionally simple to see why Outdated Grand Dad followers have been pissed when the Beam model hit cabinets. It is a million instances higher in each method.
General, that is the one pour that I’d totally endorse you making an attempt. It’s amazingly lush and simply retains going with an awesome taste profile that actually stood out. I need this whiskey again.
Half 3 — Closing Ideas on the Classic Bourbon
Yeah, an inexpensive outdated whiskey from the Eighties that your granddad in all probability saved hidden within the storage was truly freakin’ scrumptious.
In the long run, it’s wild to look again at how numerous and assorted (and longer-aged) a lot of the bourbon was just some many years in the past. It’s additionally very easy to get caught up in all that and need to solely drink bourbons from these eras. Quite a lot of the common stuff was simply so a lot better. I’m sorry, however Outdated Grand-Dad is fairly mid to shit lately, and that’s with out evaluating it to what it was. That’s only a reality.
It form of makes me unhappy.
However worry not. Not every part was higher prior to now. Each of the Pappy bottles on this panel didn’t even come near a 2022 Pappy 15-Year that I can simply get proper now. It’s all gray space and pour-by-pour dependent. Nonetheless, there’s some actually good outdated whiskey on the market that used to value pennies on the greenback and all of us form of slept on it till it was too late. Now, we have now some dusties to remind us however they’ll be gone at some point quickly too. Attempt them whilst you nonetheless can.
