When Seiko first introduced its 5 Sports activities GMT sequence in the summertime of 2022, it grew to become a right away hit amongst fans and business professionals, alike. Whereas most of the people gravitated in the direction of the sequence’ inexpensive pricing and basic SKX-inspired styling, the watch business at giant keyed in on one other level altogether — the road’s 4R34 computerized GMT motion (alternately often called the NH34 exterior of Seiko’s personal mannequin lineup). The 4R34/NH34 was virtually instantly made obtainable as a standalone caliber for unbiased manufacturers, and practically a yr after this announcement the primary crop of inexpensive NH34-powered watches is starting to look in the marketplace. Swedish microbrand Nezumi is among the first marques to offer its tackle the NH34 platform, and if this new mannequin is any indication, the entry-level GMT market is about to get much more attention-grabbing. The brand new Nezumi Aviera GMT provides a “best hits” mixture of classic sports activities watch design components, blended collectively deftly with an intriguing colorway, wonderful construct high quality, and a solidly dependable motion to kind one of many strongest contenders within the present inexpensive GMT section.
As a begin, the Nezumi Aviera GMT’s chrome steel case gives an old-school compact sports activities watch really feel on the wrist. At 40mm-wide and 12mm-thick, it’s not as small as some at present trending designs however does provide the identical form of on-wrist dimensions that you simply’d discover in most of the ‘60s and ‘70s sports activities GMTs this goals to reinterpret. It’s additionally considerably extra svelte than earlier fashions utilizing this motion. The general design right here is broadly vintage-inspired, combining components from a number of basic sports activities watches with out instantly copying any specific design. For instance, the twisted lyre lugs (extra Common Geneve-esque of their profiles than the extra frequent Omega sort) add a contact of refinement and complexity to the structure on the wrist, whereas the fastened, sunburst brushed 24-hour bezel (considerably impressed by the unique Rolex Explorer II) retains the core of the design rugged, practical, and simply legible. Though the case is absolutely brushed, there’s a shocking quantity of depth and nuance to the ending. Radial, linear, and sunburst brushing all coexist on completely different surfaces all through the case, giving the comparatively easy total form a good quantity of visible element with out sacrificing the purposeful tool-like really feel of full brushing. A signed screw-down crown helps the Aviera GMT attain a hefty 200 meters of water resistance, backing up the design’s practical look with actual efficiency. Round again, a shallow engraved strong caseback celebrates each the model’s 12 years of operation and its proudly Swedish roots.
Nezumi retains the dial of the Aviera GMT easy and simple. A printed combine of huge Arabic numerals and wedge indices at the side of a cream-white painted syringe handset makes this dial exceedingly legible at a look. Likewise, the skeletonized spearhead GMT hand in vivid sign yellow makes the second time zone immediately discernible, significantly because of the exterior 24-hour bezel. Altogether, it is a starkly function-forward no-date GMT dial design, however Nezumi elevates this fundamental method with its use of shade. The primary dial floor, together with the bases of the arms, is coated in a muted, gentle matte teal hue. It’s a shade that feels prefer it’s been weathered for many years proper out of the field, particularly when paired with the creamy off-white dial textual content, lending the design an aged classic really feel with out resorting to the standard tips of the commerce. It enhances the extra vivid splash of yellow on the GMT hand properly, paying homage to the colours of the Swedish flag with out instantly copying them and delivering a extra full of life different to easy black. Arguably, nevertheless, this straightforward structure is sort of too easy. The fully flat dial floor results in a tall, horizontally brushed vertical rehaut, and a sloping outer chapter ring might need helped to alleviate a few of this obvious visible peak.
Contained in the Nezumi Aviera GMT beats the Seiko NH34 computerized GMT motion. Primarily based on Seiko’s ubiquitous 4R platform, the NH34 is each remarkably slim and low-cost for a third-party GMT motion within the present market, and it’s this confluence of traits that enables the Aviera GMT to succeed. In response to the model’s founder, the Aviera GMT was the second watch ever design for Nezumi again in 2015, however the model put the venture on hiatus till an acceptable GMT motion was obtainable. The NH34 definitely suits the invoice right here as the brand new go-to powerplant for unbiased watchmakers, and its first rate efficiency figures embody a 40-hour energy reserve at a 21,600 bph beat price. After all, the NH34’s standing as a “caller” GMT motion (that includes a quickset 24-hour hand relatively than quickset native time) is certain to rustle some purist feathers, however given the Aviera GMT’s accessible worth level, it’s tough to fault the motion right here.
Nezumi pairs the Aviera GMT with a five-link jubilee-style bracelet in chrome steel. Relatively than utilizing the polished heart hyperlinks that normally outline this model, Nezumi provides this dressy sample a extra aggressive edge with a completely brushed look that matches the case. Many of the remainder of the bracelet design is exemplary, nevertheless, with a thick-milled clasp and strong hyperlinks all through. The one exception to the general feeling of high quality right here is the endlink design, which mates to the case at a harsh 90-degree angle and doesn’t comply with the contours of the remainder of the design.
The entry-level GMT watch section is because of turn into some of the hotly contested areas within the business because of the supply of the Seiko NH34 motion, and the Nezumi Aviera GMT is a compelling and classy indicator of the spectacular high quality that these NH34-powered designs can obtain. The Nezumi Aviera GMT is accessible for pre-order now by the model’s e-commerce platform. MSRP for the Nezumi Aviera GMT stands at 4,480 SEK (as pictured) as of press time. For extra data, please go to the brand’s website.
>Mannequin: Aviera GMT
>Value: 4,480 SEK
>Measurement: 40mm-wide, 12mm-thick
>When reviewer would personally put on it: As a daily-wear sports activities watch, or as a rugged accent piece to a classic outfit.
>Pal we’d advocate it to first: Collectors searching for a very inexpensive, well-made GMT choice, or fans who just like the Seiko 5 Sports activities GMT however need a completely different look.
>Greatest attribute of watch: Handsomely balanced proportions; attractively muted colorway; strong ending.
>Worst attribute of watch: Relatively clunky bracelet finish hyperlinks and a very flat dial structure.