Balancing minimalism with performance is not any simple activity in watch design. It’s a easy sufficient course of to develop a restrained timepiece (though making a beautiful one is a deceptively nuanced course of), however including functionality with out detracting from that straightforward cleanliness is a balancing act that few watches handle. Few manufacturers within the trendy period are as devoted to the Bauhaus-esque minimalist aesthetic as NOMOS, however simply because the model stays inside its signature technical model that doesn’t imply it’s not able to selection. With that in thoughts, then, what does it appear like when NOMOS designs a full-blown sports activities watch? Strictly talking, the Ahoi assortment isn’t a brand new addition to the NOMOS lineup, however the new-for-2023 midsize Ahoi Neomatik Date notably reshapes what a NOMOS sports activities watch may be. The brand new NOMOS Ahoi Neomatik Date combines probably the most recognizable points of the model’s design language with true dive-ready sturdiness for an offbeat, intriguingly minimal various to conventional sports activities watches.
Though it might measure in at 38.5mm-wide on paper, in follow the NOMOS Ahoi Neomatik Date’s chrome steel case gives a dramatically completely different sporting expertise than a comparably sized conventional sports activities watch. These aware of the model’s lineup would possibly see greater than a passing resemblance to the long-running Tangente collection on this case design, albeit with a small concession to sturdiness. The bent straight lugs, the all-dial stance, and the straightforward, absolutely polished cylindrical case physique all communicate to extra of a traditional costume watch than something outfitted for undersea work, however that’s the place the genius of this case’s development is available in. Apart from a set of low, wedge-shaped crown guards, there’s no outward indication that that is something however one other costume design, however due to tight tolerances and a screw-down crown, this minimal case gives a hefty 200 meters of water resistance. Whereas its lack of a dive bezel could restrict its real-world usefulness underwater, the Ahoi Neomatik Date continues to be devoted to the concept of performance. To this finish, the crown tube has an anodized pink ring to assist stop unintentional immersion when the crown is unscrewed. Round again, the Ahoi Neomatik Date is offered with both a stable caseback or a big sapphire show window. Fortunately, our overview pattern got here in with the layer, affording a beneficiant view of the impeccably completed in-house motion.
Out there in both pale blue Sky or champagne gold Sand hues, the NOMOS Ahoi Neomatik Date’s dial continues the development of sustaining the model’s design language with solely refined concessions to sporting use. The lumed stick handset and the diminutive rectangular lume plots outdoors the printed hour markers are the one visible shift from the model’s dressier choices, which leaves the remainder of the dial structure free to interact in NOMOS’ distinctive model of colourful German minimalism. Each dial choices accent their summery, muted colours with a refined matte floor, giving these fashions tastefully restrained mild play with out absolutely committing to a extra vibrant end. This permits the orange hand of the small seconds subdial to change into the pure visible centerpiece, highlighting this important data and including a way of enjoyable to the proceedings right here. The combo of slender Arabic numerals and printed batons on the hours is a traditional NOMOS contact, as is using completely color-matched date wheels for the three o’clock date shows.
NOMOS powers the Ahoi Neomatik Date with its in-house DUW 6101 automated motion. Completed in a mixture of classically German and extra trendy types, this handsomely appointed motion encompasses a striped three-quarter plate, blued screws, perlage throughout the mainplate, and an ornately engraved skeleton rotor that includes raised gold lettering and extra striping. Efficiency-wise, the DUW 6101 is extra of a blended bag. It gives a median 42-hour energy reserve at a 21,600 bph beat price however averaged out to a powerful +4 seconds per day over our testing interval. Each colour variants of the NOMOS Ahoi Neomatik Date are fitted with two-piece nylon straps – blue Sky fashions obtain a midnight blue strap, whereas tan Sand fashions are paired with medium grey. Tender, snug, and lightweight, these straps match the sporting aspect of the Ahoi Neomatik Date’s character nicely, however the best way they undercut the dressier parts of the design could show divisive amongst lovers.
Engineering a watch that appears classically dressy, however performs like a diver is not any simple achievement, however the brand new NOMOS Ahoi Neomatik Date accomplishes this aim with refined, unorthodox attraction. It might not substitute a devoted sporting timepiece in most collections, however the watch’s mix of austere Bauhaus aesthetics and succesful efficiency make a robust case for this being an excellent journey companion, dealing with elegant dinners and ocean excursions with equal aplomb. The NOMOS Ahoi Neomatik Date is offered now by means of licensed sellers. MSRP for the watch stands at $4,320 USD for steel-backed variants and $4,660 USD for sapphire-backed fashions as of press time. For extra particulars, please go to the brand’s website.
>Mannequin: Ahoi Neomatik Date
>Value: $4,660 USD
>Dimension: 38.5mm vast, 9.9mm thick
>When reviewer would personally put on it: As a one-watch trip resolution, or when matching a minimalist outfit.
>Pal we’d suggest it to first: Bauhaus or minimalist fanatics in want of one thing a bit extra rugged.
>Greatest attribute of watch: Spectacular functionality in such a smooth and formal package deal; lovely motion ending; intriguing use of colour.
>Worst attribute of watch: Love-it-or-hate-it design idea; formidable pricing.