Sartory Billard has been round since 2015 when the corporate based by Armand Billard, an industrial designer, unveiled its first watch. It was the SB01 which began off as a pet venture to commemorate his fortieth birthday. Since then, the model has come a good distance. The aim has at all times been to supply in depth customization and artisanal particulars at much less stratospheric costs, a method that has confirmed extremely profitable with watches just like the SB04 and SB05. Now the corporate is branching out into issues. Whereas at the moment creating the SB08 — a extremely advanced leaping hour and minutes watch with a flying tourbillon—Sartory Billard has unveiled a tourbillon-only mannequin, the SB06.
The creation of the SB06 stemmed from a request by Cronotempvs, a personal collector’s membership in Spain, for a flying tourbillon watch. The truth is, it sounds very similar to Armand’s founding story; what gave the impression to be an easy train of choosing a inventory motion rapidly spiraled into an bold pursuit of making a wholly authentic motion from scratch. To do that, the model enlisted the assistance of Comblémine. Though Comblémine is finest often known as a dial-maker owned by Kari Voutilainen, it is usually able to designing and creating actions.
Notably, Sartory Billard has managed to retain a lot of what made it such a standout to start with. The watch gives a outstanding degree of customization and an array of charming and distinctive options, together with multipart dials and fingers, guilloche motion plates, sapphire bridges, together with artisanal finishes – all at a smart value.
Two variations of the SB06 will likely be out there: the SB06-12 with a 12-hour format, beginning at €88,000 and the SB06-24 with a 24-hour format, beginning at €96,000. The watches pictured listed here are the SB06-12 “Havana” together with the SB06-24 “La Nuit” and “Le Jour” that are base fashions that may be custom-made advert infinitum.
Each fashions have a 41mm case, which is a contemporary measurement with out being overly massive, and a thickness of simply 9.5mm. It’s produced by Voutilainen & Cattin and is obtainable in platinum, gold, tantalum, metal or titanium. In distinction to the SB04 and SB05, the case consists of three elements – bezel, case band, and again – with individually soldered lugs. Just like the SB05, the case again is secured to the case center with Torx screws. The fashions introduced right here have totally polished instances, however they will also be custom-made in response to preferences.
The dials encompass three elements – a sapphire chapter ring on which the numerals and markers are pad-printed, an outer ring, and a central disc. This permits for a variety of customization choices reminiscent of such tremblage engraving, as seen on the SB06-12 “Havana”, CNC machined or engine-turned guilloche by Comblémine, stone from Groh & Ripp, enameling, in addition to much more unique crafts like maki-e. The numerals themselves could be tailored to totally different types like Bréguet, Roman and Jap Arabic.
Whereas the SB06-12 maintains a dial structure that’s paying homage to the SB05, the SB06-24 gives a recent and distinct design. The movement works have been transformed to point time on a 24-hour format however curiously, the dial solely contains a 12-hour scale, starting from 6am to 6pm on the higher half of the dial. It is because there are two 24-hour fingers tipped with a stylized illustration of the solar in strong gold and the moon crammed with Tremendous-Luminova respectively. These fingers make the time simply readable throughout the 12-hour scale, with the solar and moon ideas indicating daytime and nighttime hours, respectively. The minutes are indicated conventionally utilizing a minute hand aligned with a minute scale. The fingers within the SB06-12 consists of two elements, just like the SB05, one sandblasted and the opposite polished whereas every hour hand within the SB08 are made up of three elements.
What makes the customization course of even harder is that the examples introduced at launch are already very stunning and compelling. Within the current La Nuit mannequin, the engraving on the central dial is predicated on the altimeter measurements gathered by NASA’s Lunar Reconnaissance Orbiter. These measurements have been translated onto the dial with a scale issue of 1:155 million for diameter and 1:70 million for top. The dial replicates the moon’s topography with outstanding accuracy, faithfully portraying particulars at depths as shallow as 200 μm. It’s executed over a domed floor with a cumulative depth of 445 μm.
As talked about, the calibre SBT01 was developed by Comblémine. The bottom plate showcases a guilloché ornament which is utilized by way of CNC machining. It’s maybe additionally the extra sensible method as conventional hand-applied guilloche would possibly place extreme stress on the plate and probably compromise its structural integrity. The guilloche sample in addition to the coloring are all customizable.
The motion has an easy gear prepare association the place the third wheel drives the carriage pinion. The barrel bridge is manufactured from clear sapphire and is secured to the bottom plate with pillars. Arched bridges that assist the third wheel and tourbillon characteristic anglage and inward angles performed by Philippe Narbel, as is the end on the three-arm tourbillon cage. There are black polished screws all through, whereas jewels sit in polished chatons or countersinks. Moreover, the pillars that assist the sapphire bridge are totally polished. The steadiness wheel is free-sprung with 4 turnable weights. It has a frequency of 3Hz and energy reserve is a prolonged 96 hours.
At this time, tourbillon watches could be present in nearly each section of the worth spectrum, however surprisingly, few exhibit an equal degree of detailing and consideration expended on the dial work and motion, as what’s seen within the SB06. The truth is, the abundance of potentialities that Sartory Billard gives by way of customisation is beginning to really feel like simply the icing on the cake.
Motion: Hand-wound SBT01; 96-hour energy reserve, 3Hz (21,600vph)
Features: Hours and minutes (SB06-12); Hours indicated with a pair of 24-hour fingers and minutes (SB06-24)
Case: 41mm in diameter, 47mm lug-to-lug, and 9.5mm in top excluding crystal; double domed sapphire for the back and front; water resistant to 50m; out there in metal, titanium, gold, platinum and tantalum
Strap: Bespoke in leather-based kind, color, and size; handmade by Scarlett Paris
Worth: Beginning value of €88,000 for the SB06-12 and €96,000 for the SB06-24