Extra in-house execution is obvious in Gauthier’s now signature circle-in-circle wheel design. From the nice wheel to the escape wheel, every instance options spokes comprised of circles.
Gauthier’s excellence in part manufacture has turn out to be a supply of power throughout the Chanel empire: Romain Gauthier has been 20 p.c owned by the luxurious large since 2018. This boutique unbiased produces wheels and small components for Chanel’s excessive luxurious fashions.
Caseback setting watches are an odd breed, and the Status HM is not any exception. Like historic caseback setters together with the JLC Futurematic and Patek Philippe caliber 350 collection, the Gauthier 2206 is ready and wound by a bottom crown. Whereas this creates an interesting seamless aesthetic when the watch is on the wrist – hey, no crown! – using the caseback wheel entails a fiddly setting course of.
Winding the 60-hour energy reserve requires endurance, and the crown has a behavior of leaping between setting and winding capabilities except operated with endurance and focus.
The Romain Gauthier Status HM was a formidable assertion of intent in 2006. However watch collectors have but to anoint the HM with the “formative-years-grail” standing of early F.P. Journe, Kari Voutilainen, and even Rexhep Rexhepi fashions. Inside Gauthier’s personal sphere, the landmark Logical One is the best-known design, and the Continuum sports activities watch collection is destined to turn out to be the very best vendor.
In opposition to that backdrop, it’s simple to overlook a two-hand watch constructed to go well with 2000s costume watch measurement sensibilities. However “first” is a flag that flies ceaselessly, and the Status HM was on the vanguard of Romain Gauthier’s daring gamble. It gained’t be ignored ceaselessly.
For extra info, please go to www.romaingauthier.com.
Fast Info: Romain Gauthier Status reference HM MON00001
Dial: Strong gold 18-karat, reduce on hand-guided rose lathe
Case: white gold, 41 x 11.3 mm x 48.9 lug-to-lug, caseback crown for setting and winding
Motion: Romain Gauthier caliber 2206 HM, manually wound, single barrel, Gauthier-designed free-sprung steadiness, 60-hour energy reserve, 4 Hz/28,800 vph frequency, 34mm x 5.5mm
Capabilities: hours, minutes
Manufacturing: 38 items between 2006 and 2021
Worth in 2006: 34,600 Swiss francs
Worth Preowned in 2023: $50,000-$55,000
* Tim Mosso is the Media Director and Watch Specialist at Watchbox.