MICRO MONDAYS: Pitzmann strengthen their declare to be the South Korean worth proposition

Fergus Nash

South Korea isn’t usually a rustic related to watchmaking, regardless of a powerful tradition of producing that has leapt in quality during the last 20 years. That stated, microbrands basically exist to problem our preconceptions of what’s potential for small corporations to perform. Pitzmann actually seize the creativeness with their two releases The First Pitzmann and The Pitzmann II, going above and past expectations of high quality and element for an extremely inexpensive value.

The First Pitzmann

The First Pitzmann derives its seems to be from an period relatively than anybody explicit affect, and that’s the transitional interval between males sporting pocket watches and wristwatches. The phasing between the two styles was a gradual and sophisticated one, nonetheless WWI performed an enormous half in proving the utility of wrist-worn watches. These navy watches usually centered on legibility and performance such because the hacking seconds hand, permitting watches to be synchronised for tactical functions. When the struggle ended, this model shifted right into a extra informal and even refined realm, and that’s the place The First Pitzmann lies. The white enamel dial with Italicised numerals and blued sword fingers is classical and refined, evoking a number of the Artwork Deco sensibilities of the Nineteen Thirties. Legibility remains to be clear due to the train-track minute markers across the dial’s perimeter, in addition to the beneficiant markings on the small second’s subdial.

With a stepped bezel design and thick lugs typical of a classic watch case, The First Pitzmann harnesses vintage seems to be with a couple of fashionable changes of dimension and performance. The 39mm diameter is catered for up to date tastes with out showing too huge for its model, and the 47mm lug-to-lug distance ought to match comfortably on most wrists. It’s comparatively slender for an computerized watch with 100m of water resistance at 11.6mm thick, together with the double-domed sapphire crystal. The motion is the Sellita SW261, which is the small-seconds variant of the ever-present SW200. It encompasses a clean 4Hz beat fee and an influence reserve of 38 hours, with hacking and hand-winding.

The Pitzmann II

For his or her second watch, Pitzmann determined to faucet deeper into their Korean roots. One of the vital immediately recognisable options of Asian cultures is their structure, and particularly the roofing. An iconic model for Korea is the Giwa tile, fashioned by overlapping a base layer of amkiwa flatter tiles with a high layer of sukiwa half-pipe. The distinctive geometry of Giwa could be seen all through the silhouette of The Pitzmann II’s case, as opposing curves and bevels carve a Korean persona instantly into the metal. It’s not so apparent as to really feel gratuitous or tokenistic, however the appreciation for the tradition can undoubtedly be felt. Given the bolder design of the case, The Pitzmann II does are inclined to lean right into a sportier scene than The First Pitzmann as effectively. Its 40mm diameter fills out the area properly, whereas the 46mm lug-to-lug distance stays squat and strong on wrists of most sizes.

As for the thickness, using the Sellita SW300 motion has truly helped The Pitzmann II to be slimmer than The First Pitzmann, standing at solely 10.8mm together with the sapphire crystal. This slender motion additionally packs an influence reserve of 56 hours together with its 4Hz beat fee. The dial of The Pitzmann II additionally carries some sportiness due to its thick fingers and utilized indices, nonetheless the polish on a few of these surfaces in addition to the bezel ensures it doesn’t lose all of its potential dressiness. The concentric circles throughout the dial’s outer sector add a pleasant quantity of depth and complexity, serving to to deliver out every of the out there colors in blue, inexperienced, or gray.

The First Pitzmann and The Pitzmann II pricing and availability:

Each of Pitzmann’s releases are at present out there on their website. Value: US$945 (First Pitzmann on leather-based) / US$970 (First Pitzmann on bracelet) / US$1,099 (Pitzmann II on bracelet) / US$1,202 (Pitzmann II on bracelet + leather-based)