British watchmaking is in a stronger place in 2023 than it’s been for many years, and one of many manufacturers on the head of this horological “British Invasion” is undoubtedly Bremont. Because the opening of its cutting-edge Manufacturing and Expertise Centre in 2021, the model has introduced a slew of latest mannequin strains, collection extensions, and redesigns, revamping its catalog right into a compelling luxurious sports activities watch contender. One of the technically succesful choices of this new Bremont technology is 2022’s restricted version Supermarine Waterman Apex, which mixed a hefty 500-meter depth score, GMT performance, and a basic diver design influenced by model ambassador and legendary skilled big-wave surfer Laird Hamilton. For Hamilton’s second effort with Bremont, the British marque goals to refine, streamline, and elevate the unique Waterman Apex design, bringing the watch in keeping with Bremont’s present design language whereas presenting a extra unified total look. The brand new restricted version Bremont Waterman Apex II combines the model’s crisp, trendy British design sensibilities with daring proportions and a globe-trotting bent, delivering a refined however genuinely heavy-duty possibility for the worldwide aquatic adventurer.
Like most of Bremont’s sports activities fashions, the Waterman Apex II’s stainless-steel case cuts an unapologetically daring, imposing determine on the wrist. At 43mm huge and a ponderous 16.5mm thick, there’s no disguising the case’s wrist presence, however the model’s signature Journey-Tick multi-piece case development does make for a dramatic look. The lug and higher case meeting’s emphatic, curving taper from the flared lug tricks to the excessive, slim waistline creates dynamic reflections in direct gentle, notably when coupled with the flowing polished lug chamfers. The grooved cylindrical interior case’s matte black DLC ending makes for a stark distinction with the encircling metal, additional emphasizing the outer case’s deep undercuts and positioning the case’s thickness as a visible centerpiece slightly than downplaying it. The remainder of the case design is essentially carried over from Bremont’s different 500-meter divers, together with a comparatively tall, shallow-toothed bezel, an outsized screw-down crown at 2 o’clock, and the model’s placing, wavelike single-sloping crown guard. Bremont additionally contains an computerized helium escape valve as an added nod to the watch’s deep-water functionality. Somewhat than a dive-style bezel insert, nonetheless, Bremont opts for a unidirectional 24-hour scale in crisply printed matte black ceramic to work along with the watch’s GMT complication. Bremont eliminates the primary Waterman Apex’s sapphire show caseback in favor of a crisply engraved strong again, that includes the Supermarine line’s signature Supermarine seaplane motif. Whereas some could decry the lack of a show window, the brilliant, sharp ending on this engraving is a marked step up from the unique Waterman Apex’s motion decorations. Like the primary Waterman Apex, nonetheless, the Bremont Waterman Apex II is rated for a hefty 500-meter water resistance.
Less complicated, sharper, and with a extra centered execution, the Bremont Waterman Apex II’s dial exhibits probably the most substantial step ahead from its predecessor. The segmented, syringe-tipped Roman sword handset ties within the design with a lot of the remainder of the present Supermarine vary, however continues to be compellingly stylized with an upscale, classical really feel. In contrast, the slim utilized dive indices are easy and simple, permitting the remainder of the format to take the highlight on the wrist. The exception to that is Bremont’s arrowhead-shaped 12 o’clock marker, which diverges from the basic dive watch formulation simply sufficient to face out. The place this dial actually shines, nonetheless, is with its newly centered use of colour and texture. Texture is the driving pressure behind the matte black essential dial floor, with simply sufficient grain on the outer ring to make the dial stand out in altering gentle. For the raised interior dial section, although, Bremont features a cleverly playful new aspect. At first look, this sample is similar form of engraved wave texture made well-known by Omega, however when given nearer consideration, the Waterman Apex II provides its personal participating twist. Between every of the waves at common intervals is a menacing triangular shark’s fin, cresting out of the water and appearing as a superb dialog starter. Bremont pares again the Waterman Apex II’s use of dial colour, however the finish end result feels far sharper and extra centered on the wrist. A vivid, high-visibility sign orange highlights the triangle-tipped GMT hand in addition to the 60-minute numerals on the outer minutes ring and the 6 o’clock printed “Waterman” emblem. To enhance this sparingly used, punchy orange, Bremont makes use of its pale, desaturated Harbor Blue for the outer chapter ring. Not solely does this assist to attract consideration to the important minutes scale for at-a-glance legibility, nevertheless it additionally offers the dial sufficient distinction to face out on the wrist with out turning into overwhelming.
Bremont powers the Waterman Apex II with the ETA 2893-2-based BE-932AV computerized GMT motion. Just lately revised with new modifications from Bremont, the BE-932AV offers some substantial technical advances over the bottom motion, together with ISO 3159 compliant chronometer accuracy and a strong 50-hour energy reserve at a 28,800 bph beat fee. Nonetheless, some purists should decry the caller-style quickset 24-hour hand, versus the extra fascinating quickset native hours hand. To finish the design, Bremont provides the Waterman Apex II with ridged rubber straps in both black or Harbor Blue, together with an non-compulsory brushed three-link oyster-style bracelet in stainless-steel (sadly, solely a blue strap-equipped pattern was out there for images throughout our restricted time with the watch). The bracelet provides a set of eye-catching accent grooves to the interior hyperlinks, nevertheless it’s the straps which are the true winner on the wrist, with a versatile, strong really feel that helps to make this athletic case surprisingly manageable in common put on.
With the brand new restricted version Waterman Apex II, Bremont combines spectacular functionality, crisp ending, balanced stylistic updates, and design touches impressed by browsing nice Laird Hamilton to create a daring, intriguing showcase of how far this chief in British watchmaking has come lately. Solely 350 examples of the Bremont Waterman Apex II might be made, and the watch is on the market now by means of licensed sellers. Beginning MSRP for the Bremont Waterman Apex II stands at $5,150 USD as of press time. For extra info, please go to the brand’s website.